Water Chemistry of the Aquariums

Betta fish are a better bet as pets than goldfish. Most kids have this experience with goldfish after a few days: Moby is found floating at the top of the bowl, then gets a one-way tour of a toilet's plumbing system. This speedy demise occurs because goldfish don't like being kept in a bowl. However, betta fish, also called Siamese fighting fish, think bowls are great homes.

Water in bowls quickly turns foul and oxygen-deficient, and that's when goldfish begin to fail, Dave Taub explains. He owns Contemporary Aquarium Design in Coral Springs, Fla. But betta fish are different, says Taub, who has been breeding them for 14 years. They have a lung-like organ called a labyrinth that allows them to come to the surface and take a breath. (Taub has known betta fish to be kept in everything from pickle jars to candle holders.)

But betta fish aren't dubbed Siamese fighting fish for their ability to fight off polluted water - it's because they fight off each other. In the wild, they live in rice patties in the countries of the Far East, such as Vietnam, Thailand and Malaysia. They carve out small territories and defend them at all costs. You'll be an accessory to a fish murder if you add a betta fish to a bowl already containing one.

Betta fish are available at many pet stores for $3-$5. They're about the size of a typical goldfish, though their dainty fins make them appear larger. They come in a kaleidoscope of color combos, including shades of blues, greens and reds. Not great swimmers, they're content to gently fan the water with those graceful fins. Their diet includes a combination of at least two of the following: live or frozen bloodworms, frozen mosquito larvae, freeze-dried brine shrimp or commercial diet for betta fish. (These foods are available at many pet stores.)

Fancy aquariums may be a tank of dreams, but fuss-free bowl fish are the new trend.

We're not talking goldfish, but rather betta fishes, otherwise known as Siamese fighting fish.

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Skin and Gill Flukes in Tropical Fish

While parasites of various types are often responsible for fish rubbing themselves against objects in the tank, sometimes to the point of causing raw skin, it can be difficult to identify which parasite it is, unless you have a very good visual of it.

In the case of skin fluke, which is a parasitic flatworm, they are unlikely to show themselves to the extent where you would be able to remove them manually as you can with leeches or fish lice. One of the common denominators they have with other parasite infections, is they can cause redness of skin, but so can rubbing against stones and wood. However, skin fluke also causes a fading of color, and because the treatment is common to other types of parasites, you are best to go with a general medication, such as Droncit or formalin baths, when unsure whether it is skin fluke or not. Remove severely affected fish to a hospital tank.

The standard treatments of adding 1 tbs. of aquarium salt to a daily change of water in the home aquarium, and raising the tank temperature by four degrees also applies. This is used for most parasites, including gill fluke, which has more obvious and visual symptoms.

Gill fluke is a worm that specifically attacks the gill membranes, causing them to turn red and acquire a coating of slime that makes it difficult to breathe. Fish will hang at the water's surface, gasp, and lose weight rapidly. The same tank treatments as skin fluke can be used, but with gill fluke, removing to a hospital tank and adding short baths in either formalin, salt or ammonium hydroxide to the regimen will help kill what is on the fish, and you can then treat their environment.

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Aquarium Medications, Treatments And How They Work By Carl Strohmeyer

This article (which will continue to grow with information) is informational about different aquarium (and pond) treatments. I give the gram negative or gram positive applications where they apply. Many aquarium antibiotics and chemical treatments are explained.

When you have fish that are sick (bacterial, fungal, protozoan, or other parasites), you want to try and isolate them in a hospital aquarium whenever possible. Regular water changes before each treatment allow for a more effective treatment, especially when treated in the display aquarium.

Sponge filters work well in hospital aquariums. Remember to remove carbon, as carbon will remove many medications.

Also not that silicone in the aquarium will absorb malachite green, methylene blue, and copper sulfate. Most corals (crushed and otherwise), and ceramic decorations will also absorb medications such as malachite green, methylene blue, and copper sulfate.

Proper calcium levels are important, as calcium also helps in healing and stress, and without proper calcium levels healing may be diffficult or impossible. The addition of antibiotics (such as Tetracycline) will lower calcium absorbtion.

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